- Duck Call Insert Jig Dimensions
- Duck Call Insert Jig
- Duck Call Insert Jig Dimensions
- Making A Duck Call Insert Jig
- Duck Call Insert Jig Plan
- Duck Call Insert Jig Dimensions
Our Jigs are designed to withstand normal steel cutting tools with a Rockwell hardness of 60Rc or less - less being better for the jig (typical Nicholson files are approximately 55Rc) but the jigs can NOT stand up to carbide, diamond, grinding or abbrasives (like sand paper). Our jigs are through hardened A2 tool steel and are 61-64Rc hardness. Here is a duck call insert being turned out of black walnut. By Drake Dropper Calls. Brookside, brookside game calls, brookside turkey calls, turkey call supplies, game calls, game call supplies, call supplies, slate calls, call making, call making.
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This is what I am trying to create.
I have some small blocks of 4140 pre hard so I started with the smallest one. This was a good chance to use my indexable end mill. It has two TPG222 inserts. I just wanted to get rid of the scale and rust on the outside of the block and get things squared up.
Here is a first pass using some dark cutting oil.
After I got the sides cleaned up I started on the ends. The ends were rough saw cut and were not very square. To get things aligned in the vise I gently clamped the 4140 block to a small angle block. I rested the bottom of the work piece on a single steel ball so it could tilt and pivot while everything was tightened up. As I gently tightened the vise I tapped the block with a nylon dead blow hammer. Then I tightened the C-clamp again. Then really snugged down the vise.
You can see the steel ball under the work piece.
And taking a pass on the end of the block. The end mill was making nice 6 and 9 shaped chips.
The finished product from yesterday. Not great but not bad. Next up will be to drill and bore the hole.
DaveH
Duck Call Insert Jig Dimensions
This is how it looks with the hole chamfered.
Tom
Next will be machining the rear step and then milling the 0.165' notch in the corner of the 'L'. It's supposed to rain next weekend so maybe I will get more time in the shop and the turkeys will get a weekend reprieve.
Here is the jig with the rough, saw cut faces.
Here are the homemade spring clips made from steel strapping tape that I use to keep the parallels upright and tight against the vise jaws.
And a final picture of the finished lower step.
This picture shows the surface finish.
Here is the jig in the normal orientation. Still need to add the little slots in the corner. Should be able to start this weekend.
(03-17-2016, 12:34 PM)JScott Wrote: I hit a window of opportunity and made a little more progress on the jig last night. I was able to finish the 'upper' step with a regular end mill. It doesn't have as nice a finish as the carbide indexable end mill. Tried different rpm's and depth of cut and they were all about the same.
Try using the side of the end mill for your finish passes instead of the mill end. You might find the finish more visually appealing.
My new goal is to get a 2¢ reply! I do appreciate the help.
Sawing out the piece was good. It's temping to mill it out, but that's not very efficient. You need to be careful with cutting speed on the saw as well or that pre-hard will kill the blade. It should be 60SFPM there too (with coolant).
How are you planning to cut the slot?
Tom
I saw cut the waste material at the lowest speed on the HF band saw and used a lot of WD-40 to keep it lubricated. It cut easily and when I cut the last bit by hand using the saw vertically very little pressure was needed.
My end mill could be dull because the carbide insert end mill left a much better finish. I always use some dark cutting oil with the end mills. It smokes a little but I don't mind the smell and I have a small fan set up to blow it away. I'll do some experiments with the scrap block I cut out with the saw.
My plan for the slot is to pre-drill holes with 1/8' drill bit and then use a long 5/32' end mill to remove the rest of the material. I am also looking at making a 0.165' broach from a square 3/16' tool bit and using the mill to nibble out the remaining material in the corners at the back of the slot where the end mill will leave a radius. I'll probably just file out the corners because there will be very little material and I've never made a broach before. But, like all things there is always a first time.
JScott
Here you will find a complete tutorial on how to turn a duck call insert. Not every call maker does it the same way, therefore this is the method that I use.
I start by cutting a 6″ piece of 1″ acrylic (I do it the same for wood, antler etc). I then mark the center of each end using a center finder and then use a center punch to make a dimple.
I mount the 1″ x 6″ piece of acrylic on the lathe and turn a 5/8″ x 2″ tenon on the side closest to the headstock so that it will then fit into my collet chuck.
The acrylic mounted in my collet chuck.
I now turn all but the end piece (of which I am going to shape later) down to 5/8″.
Duck Call Insert Jig
Drill a 1/4″ hole for the tone channel. I mark the distance on my drill bit and use a drill stop collar. I use a pan underneath to catch all of the cutting lubricant that I use.
Turn the end piece to your desired shape and cut your lanyard groove.
Wet sand the piece using a lot of water and sanding pads from 600 grit to 12,000 mm.
Polish the inside of the insert using a .22 rifle cleaning swab and extension.
Polish the outside of the insert.
Duck Call Insert Jig Dimensions
Use a parting tool to cut a deep groove next to the collet chuck.
Making A Duck Call Insert Jig
Snap the insert from the collet chuck.
Duck Call Insert Jig Plan
Mount the insert into a duck call jig.
Cut the end and excess material from the jig.
Duck Call Insert Jig Dimensions
Ready for sanding, polishing and installing reed and cork.